Your wedding gown is probably the most epic garment you will ever wear, and sure, the ornate fabric adds to that effect, but what really makes it a wedding gown? The TRAIN! Like most brides, you’re probably wondering–how do you get the drama of a train without it getting in the way while you’re dancing your heart out at your reception? Do you need a second gown, something simpler, for the reception? Should you ditch the train completely? The answer is not nearly as complicated as it seems. You bustle it – it’s that easy!
PHOTOGRAPHY | Anya Kernes Photography
When we think bustle, we tend to think of elaborate Victorian gowns or the padded rumps of Cinderella’s jealous stepsisters. While those are certainly relatives of the modern bustle, they are distant relatives. In the past, bustles were used to accentuate the figure and add detail to a design. Today, bustles are primarily used to shorten the train of a gown through a series of buttons and loops, ties, or hook and eyes, to allow for more mobility. Modern bustles can be eye-catching or understated depending on the look you are going for.
PHOTOGRAPHY | Sally Pinera
1. American Bustle
The American Bustle picks the train up and fixes it to the outside of the gown, with the end result resembling a beautiful cascade of fabric that gracefully touches the ground. Depending on the length of your train and the fullness of your gown, multiple pick-ups may be necessary. This style of bustle is fairly simple for your alterations specialist to install and is, therefore, one of the most affordable bustle options. The American Bustle is perfect for gowns that are made from sheer lightweight fabrics and have dramatic trains.
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2. Side Bustle
As the name suggests, the side bustle is where the train is picked up and fastened to one side. It is an asymmetrical look, which makes it ideal for gowns that are asymmetrical, to begin with. If done right, the side bustle can make the excess fabric blend with the draping on the gown so that it is barely visible. This is a simple bustle to install and, therefore, costs less than your average bustle.
3. French Bustle
The French Bustle tucks the fabric up under the skirt in multiple points creating a more voluminous look. A French Bustle usually requires multiple pick-ups and is great for gowns made from heavier fabrics or gowns that have shorter trains. This is one of the more complicated bustle options both for your alterations specialist and your bridesmaids (mostly due to the fact that it is hidden under the skirt); this makes it one of the more pricey bustle options.
PHOTOGRAPHY | Pinkerton Photography
4. Austrian Bustle
An Austrian Bustle uses a drawstring-type system to pull up the excess fabric creating a ruched effect. It can be done just at the center back seam or in multiple places on the train to create an ornate draping effect. This bustle is complicated to install but easy to use, putting it on the pricier side.
5. Ballroom Bustle
The Ballroom Bustle is the most complex bustle to install but one of the simplest in appearance. This bustle requires your alterations specialist to install buttons or hooks to the waist and various points on the train of your gown. When each of these points is carefully pleated and fastened in place, the train disappears. Because of the level of complexity, this bustle is on the expensive side. It is best suited for gowns with full skirts made from a detailed fabric (like lace) that can hide the multiple buttons and loops.
PHOTOGRAPHY | Angelina Gonzales via Wedding Bee
6. Wristlet Bustle
This is the bustle that always gives us princess vibes. A wristlet bustle takes the tip of the train and fastens it to a loop that goes around your wrist. It looks magical when you’re dancing, but can get a little heavy after a while. It’s best for gowns with medium to long trains that are made of light-weight fabrics. Because of its simplicity, this bustle option is very affordable.
7. English Bustle
An English bustle is similar to a ballroom bustle, where the excess fabric is ornately pleated and fastened to the gown. The difference is that an English bustle is fastened lower on the skirt where a traditional ballroom bustle is fastened to the waist. This is great for mermaid gowns or really any gown that is fitted through the hips.
PHOTOGRAPHY | Weddings By Scott And Dana
8. Train-flip Bustle
If you hate the look of bustles, this one’s for you! Your alterations specialist adds hooks or button loops under the hem of your gown so that you can flip it up and secure it underneath–making it look like you never had a train at all! This magical bustle works best with gowns that have smaller trains and a minimal amount of layers and volume.
Gowns do not come with bustles installed, this is mainly because gowns are made to a standard length and will need to be hemmed and bustled to just touch the floor when the bride is wearing it. Because each bride can be a different height and her shoe choice can add even more variation, bustles and hems are both performed when you have your alterations done. While there may be standard styles of bustles, the way they are installed depends on the alterations specialist and the gown itself. It is for this same reason that the pricing for bustling a gown can vary from place to place and gown to gown. One gown may work better with buttons and loops while one is better suited to using ties to fasten the bustle. Don’t worry though–your tailor will make these tough decisions for you. All you have to know is what you like and let the experts do the rest.
PHOTOGRAPHY | Kenzie Victory